If you do this job and find yourself separating the hub and bearing carrier like I did, your car is not leaving your driveway until you remove the knuckle and either separate the bearing carrier from the knuckle, or you decide to replace the bearing, backing plate, and knuckle. I was able to bend back the backing plate on the left side, but on the right side I had to use a lot of force from my press to separate it and then had to replace the backing plate. press to separate the carrier and backing plate from the knuckle. I took the entire knuckle assembly off the car and used my 20,000 lb. On both sides the hub separated from the bearing and the carrier and whacking the carrier with a heavy sledgehammer only deformed the carrier and did not loosen it from the knuckle. My 2015 Forester has gone through 9 winters (bought in Dec 2014) and 95,000 miles in Boston suburbs and I just changed both rear bearings. I wouldn't be scared of this, and we saved $700. ![]() Note that our car has cable e-brakes, I think the electrical e-brakes may take different procedures. First side took me an hour and a half, other side took an hour. 25,000 miles so far, no noises, but probably premature to say the bearing life is OK. ![]() We were quoted $800 from an independent (!), needless to say they don't get to bid on any of our stuff any more. ![]() Magneto rotor bolt for 1952 through 1969 BMW motorcycle works perfectly - and of course everyone has dozens of these just laying around, no problemo -)Ĭlicker torque wrench makes your life lots easier, some of the angles make seeing the torque wrench difficult, with a clicker, you just pull until it clicks and you're golden. Not a real big deal, the bolt that pops the disc off the hub is a 6 by 1 mm thread (if I remember correctly) and is a little hard to find. Changed both rear wheel bearings at 75K or thereabouts.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |